Salmon curry is not the most traditional food to have on Christmas Day, but that’s what my uncle brought round for us this year to whet our appetites before the turkey, ham and piles of veggies.

Having Indian parents means my uncle is a dab hand in the kitchen and he always knocks up something pretty special as a starter for Christmas dinner. Salmon seems to be at its very best when it is curried and he first brought round a salmon curry a few years ago. That dish took on legendary status, but it never reappeared until this year when it was very welcome.

Other curried starters on Christmases past have included dishes using quail which is a fantastically delicate way to begin a meal.